A high-capacity A-frame trailer coupler cannot have the ball coupler portion cut off and a new similar part bolted on. The result would be a reduced and unknown weight capacity; it is a sure thing that the repaired coupler would not have anything close to its original rating.
You can replace the welded-on A-frame coupler with a bolt on type but you'll have to have a welder completely remove the old unit from the trailer frame. We have three Demco bolt-on 2-inch ball couplers for A-frame... view full answer...
Because they consider it proprietary information, the manufacturer will not provide a build sheet or detailed drawing of the # CA5100B.
I believe you're needing the angle of the A-frame trailer tongue which would be equal to the angle of the two sides of the coupler which is 50 degrees, as shown in the photo I've provided. view full answer...
The Repair Kit for etrailer and Ram A-Frame Couplers # CA-5100-RK only fits the following couplers # CA5100B, CA-5100-BLB, and # CA-5100-Z, so it would not solve your connection difficulty, unless you had one of these specific couplers.
Aside from lubing the hitch ball the only other solution would be to replace your coupler with an easier coupling design like the Demco A-Frame Trailer Coupler w/ Jack Hole - eZ-Latch # DM14793-97 or the weld-on version # DM14791-97.
The eZ-Latch coupler... view full answer...
There are a few reasons why you might be having some difficulty latching your A-Frame Weld-On Coupler # CA5400.
First, I recommend making sure that the coupler is unlatching completely when you are uncoupling from the hitch ball. It's possible that it is unlatching just enough to release from the ball but not all the way, making for a more difficult connection when hooking back up to the tow vehicle. I also recommend making sure that the coupler is free of dirt, debris or corrosion, as... view full answer...
The first thing that comes to mind is that there might be some debris or corrosion that's preventing the latch handle from fully engaging when pulled down. I recommend giving the coupler a thorough inspection, both on top of the unit around the latch and inside the coupler, cleaning out as best you can any debris and corrosion that could be causing the issue.
If this doesn't resolve the problem then something may have gotten bent somehow on the mechanism. I can't be sure as to what would... view full answer...
Generally the Demco A-Frame Trailer Coupler w/ Jack Hole part # DM14793-81 is very easy to release. There is a lock/pin hole located just under the latch that may have a pin in it preventing it from opening.
I have linked a photo showing exactly where the hole is on your coupler. view full answer...
The Convert-A-Ball Multi-Cushioned Gooseneck Trailer Coupler # CG itself shouldn't be making any kind of creaking or popping noises when you're breaking and accelerating. The only way something like that would be possible is if the internal components failed and in that case they would be falling out of the bottom portion of the coupler, according to my contact at Convert-A-Ball.
You might get a little creaking from the gooseneck hitch ball connection to the coupler if you go over a speed... view full answer...
According to Lippert, as long as the manual crank will still operate the jack for the most part, there's little danger of the jack falling but it wouldn't be a bad idea to add some temporary support under the coupler/A-frame. I'd recommend using some jack stands like # PTW41021 under the A-frame for safety and peace of mind. The jack stands adjust up to 16-3/4 inches in height. view full answer...
It sounds like you need to replace your trailer coupler as there should not be excessive up and down or side to side play on the hitch ball. If you do have too much play or the latching mechanism is not functioning properly like you said then you are at risk of the trailer coupler becoming detached from the hitch ball which I am sure I do not have to tell you is very bad. The loose fit around the hitch ball is a tell-tale sign the coupler needs to be replaced.
In order to replace the... view full answer...
I can help you understand the difference between the latch lock style for couplers and the collar lock style.
First let's talk about the latch style. If installed properly this style of coupler will work great. Determining if it is latched properly is a little more visually difficult than the collar style though. If properly installed the bottom of the latch mechanism should sit against the ball with no space. If your coupler is designed for a 2 inch ball size, you should be using... view full answer...
One of the biggest culprits that will not allow the latch to go down as far as it originally did is because there is dirt or debris in the mechanism. Also if it is really dry that can effect the latch.
I first recommend checking for any signs of excess dirt or anything that would inhibit the latch. Then use a good lithium grease like part # L11354 and make sure all of the parts are well lubricated and working properly. Put some of the grease on the ball as well and try hooking and unhooking... view full answer...
Since there is such a big gap from the rear axle to the end of the motor home there will be an increased chance the hitch will drag.
You could use the Bulldog Cast Head Coupler, part # BDA2005C0317, but you would need to have it welded onto the A-frame of your Wells Cargo Trailer by a trailer professional or certified welder. This would then allow you to use a ball mount with less of a drop. As you may know, you will still want to make sure the trailer is being pulled as level as possible... view full answer...
It sounds as if the holes in the trailer frame are not drilled straight through the tongue, or that the coupler spread a little bit after it was stamped at the factory. The coupler should conform to the shape of the frame when installed.
The first thing I would try is use a C-clamp around the coupler, and squeeze the coupler to the frame. This way you can check to see if the bolts will align and slide all the way through the coupler and frame.
If you cannot get the bolts to align in... view full answer...
The way I would go about this is to lower your coupler height or use a coupler similar to the Bulldog Collar-Lok Coupler w/ Pin - 2-5/16 inch Ball - Adjustable Channel Mount - 12,500 lbs, item # BD028585, and mount it so that the coupler is in the correct position to allow a weight distribution hitch to be used with the trailer and coupler. Make sure the coupler you select will accommodate the total weight of your trailer and the loads on it.
You would then use a weight distribution system... view full answer...
The B&W Extend-A-Goose Gooseneck Coupler - 10" Offset # BWTEXA4200 should be a straight fit. If your coupler was not installed so the pin was horizontal, then there isn't another adapter that will fit correctly. The misalignment will be an issue with any replacement. I recommend replacing your coupler with the Ram Gooseneck Coupler w/ Load Bearing Pin - 8" Adjustment - Round - 2-5/16" Ball - 25K # GCPN-25008.
Your only other option is drilling a new hole in your current coupler to... view full answer...
I believe the problem you are experiencing is due to the fact that the trailer has a bottom-mount coupler. You will need to have the weight distribution shank in the drop position with the head low and probably tilted towards the trailer in order to get the proper height for your trailer. The spring bars should be close to being parallel with the trailer frame.
If you make these adjustments and the system still is not properly mounted, this weight distribution system probably is not going... view full answer...
I have a solution for you. I went ahead and reached out to my contact at Dexter Axle, and they recommended replacing the surge coupler with a standard weld on or bolt on straight tongue coupler. This is the safest way. They could not confirm for sure whether drilling a hole/installing a bolt would affect the stability or strength of the coupler.
For a standard coupler, I recommend the Channel Tongue Trailer Coupler # CT-3002-Z along with the 2" Hitch Ball # C40004. If you need a hitch... view full answer...
Chucking is felt during acceleration and deceleration so if you are feeling it while just driving along then something else is going on which may or may not be related to the Covert-A-Ball adapter # CAB-C5GX1216.
If it is the adapter then it could be that the height setting range is not enough to properly work with your truck/trailer set up causing some porpoising which would kind feel like a rocking sensation front to back. There is also a little more play between a gooseneck coupler... view full answer...
When bleeding the brakes on a surge actuator, such as the Dexter DX7.5L A-60 Brake Actuator w Electric Lockout # DX56FR, you want to start by making sure there is fresh fluid in the reservoir then press a screw driver against the rod in the access hole to pump the brakes. If you don't have an access hole, wrap the safety chains around a pole or board and push the top into the coupler to force the pumping action that way. I attached a detailed write-up page that explains this process, and... view full answer...
If your current coupler is loose enough that it rattles when connected to a hitch ball it is in need of adjustment or replacement. There should be a nut on the underside of the coupler that holds the latch in place. You would want to tighten that down so that the latch fits tighter to the hitch ball.
The Titan Coupler part # T4845000 would also be a great replacement as long as your trailer frame is built on 3 inch channel. This coupler is also made in the USA. view full answer...
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